UPPER WEST SIDE 103 WEST 77TH STREET NEW YORK, NY
I arrived to the Dovetail kitchen at 2pm and was immediately put to work. dicing sweet potatoes, peeling soft boiled eggs for the “soft boiled egg” dish, scoring trumpet mushrooms, cutting parsnips, the typical bitch work. A lot of chefs hate this type of prep but for me its very therapuetic and prepping your dish is just as important as cooking it. Dovetail was recently awarded their first Michelin star and you see why. Everything was immaculate, immersion circulators in every corner, chefs dressed in Bragard aprons conveying discipline as they prepared for service. For some reason this type of structure puts me at ease; makes me comfortable. The thing I love the most about fine dining is that it takes a team to put out the dishes, you have to learn how to communicate with each other.
John Fraiser is the head chef/owner of Dovetail. Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to meet him as he is opening a new restaurant in So-Ho. The plan for the new space is to change the menu/concept every month and close after 9 months (when the restaurant hits it’s peak) and walk away. The point being that as soon as the restaurant hits its climax and makes money you shut it down so you don’t experience the slow period; pretty genius if you think about it. This also allows you to find temporary not to mention cheap rent in one of the most lucrative parts of town.
AVERAGE SIZE FOR A KITCHEN IN NYC
ROASTED SIRLOIN, BEEF CHEEK LASAGNA KING TRUMPET MUSHROOMS, ONIONS
HALIBUT CONFIT, CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS, SALSIFY, TRUFFLES
SEARED FOIE GRAS, GRAHAM CRACKER PUREE, HUCKLEBERRIES
SOFT BOILED EGG, SCALLION PUREE, BACON AND SWEET POTATO RAGU
RAGU FOR EGG
I have re-discovered my passion for eggs on this trip. It is such a versatile and delicious protein. To make quick and easy soft boiled eggs you bring water to a boil with some vinegar (this makes the egg easier to peel) and cook them for 5 minutes, place in cold water, then peel. You will have a perfectly poached egg, so simple and delicious!
I really liked how they presented the duck confit in this dish. After the duck is finished cooking they lay it out on a sheet tray lined in the duck skin (pictured below) and press it over night. Then cut it into rectangles and crisp it on the stove to order.
DUCK CONFIT, BEETS, CURRY PUREE
PRESSED DUCK CONFIT
FUJI APPLE CRISP, PECANS, ROSEMARY-BUTTERSCOTCH ICE CREAM
BRAISED PORK SHOULDER, POTATOES, CABBAGE, KUMQUATS
BRUSSELS SPROUTS SALAD, CAULIFLOWER, MANCHEGO, MANGALICA HAM
CRAB SALAD, DAIKON, SHISO, YOGURT
This dish was gorgeous. The crab is rolled in sliced, blanched daikon.
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