Stage #11 WD~50

50 CLINTON ST. LOWER EAST SIDE NEW YORK, NY

www.wd-50.com

This is a story about a restaurant and how a chef’s vision changed the culinary world as we know it.  A vision brought to life by an army of cooks creating modernistic food in perfect synergy.  A place where professionalism lives, dreams are reality, thinking is free, and food education is continued. This is a story about chef Wylie Dufresne’s WD~50.

WD~50 lives on 50 Clinton Street in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, and is filled with bustling people trying to improve themselves as cooks, waiters, chefs, restaurateurs and entrepreneurs.  A restaurant where you actually find the “chef in the kitchen.” Shifts last 14 hours, rest is seldom, and hard work is rewarded with an end-of-the night Tecate beer; an employee nightcap of sorts.   For two weeks, I called this place home and discovered the magic behind its doors.

From the beginning, everyone starts out at WD~50 as a prep cook, working in the downstairs kitchen preparing food for the station chefs that work the dinner service.  A typical dinner service at WD~50 can be described as electric.  When the restaurant opens (6pm), everyone puts on his or her game face.  Chef Wylie sharpens his knife as Chef John goes over the reservation list with the servers.  The white, tattered aprons worn during prep are replaced by crisp blue and white stripes.  Stations are set; the show is about to start!

LAMB SHOULDER, PISTACHIO POLENTA, ENDIVE MARMALADE, SPICED APRICOT

On my 4^th day, I was invited to go up-stairs to work the dinner service.  As I stepped on the line and was given a stripe, it was hard to avoid the nervous feelings that had begun to sink in.  With Wylie Dufresne, who is a total badass by the way, working only 10 feet away and trying to ignore the voice in my head saying, “just don’t screw up anything” was challenging.  As the tickets flowed in, the kitchen hummed and the staff worked together to create flawless food. Guests lined-up for a tour of the kitchen and to shake Chef Wylie’s hand for a great meal. Among those guests were David Chang, Johnny Iuzzini, and Sean Brock; just another typical Wednesday night!  The vibe was that rare combination of polished yet casual.  That energy I felt as I stood in the middle of it all sparked that moment where I thought to myself, “this is what made the trip completely worth it”.

SIGNATURE DISH: EGGS BENEDICT

I was fortunate enough to spend 10 days at WD~50 and what I took away from the experience was invaluable.  Sure, most of my days included repetitive tasks such as thorough cleaning and daunting chores. My back continuously ached and the 2^nd degree burn I acquired on my forearm wasn’t exactly “awesome” as the prep cooks referred to it.  Yet my experience taught me to approach food differently and that alone made re-filling ice bins and peeling turnips totally worth it.  I can also now say that I can shell an Edamame bean faster than anyone on the planet!

LIQUID CHURRO, BITTER COCOA, CHILIES, MEYER LEMON

MILK CHOCOLATE, BLACK BEAN, PLANTAIN, SOY, PEANUT

Stage #10 One Eared Stag

INMAN PARK, 1029 EDGEWOOD AVE, ATLANTA GA

www.oneearedstag.com

Robert Phalen, chef/owner of Holy Taco in the East Atlanta village recently opened the, “One Eared Stag” which sets up shop in the old Shaun’s location in Inman Park.  Ever since I read Robert’s menus I knew I wanted to visit his kitchen.  He has a daring and creative approach to food yet handles ingredients with simplistic finesse.   He is definitely one of the most talented and unfortunately one of the most underrated chefs in the city.  You will find dishes such as “fried chicken necks”, and “pig’s feet terrine” on his daily changing menu. He has that innate ability to think outside the box without over thinking, creating delicious food that highlight fresh, local ingredients.

I knew I was going to enjoy staging here because when I first called Robert he picked up the phone and said, “sorry I just got a whole pig in that we are about to break down, talk to my sous chef”.  When I arrived to the kitchen it became even more apparent that he likes to utilize the whole animal, something chefs should do.  And he sure used that whole pig he mentioned on the phone.  From the skin that he makes into chicarronnes to the porchetta that I got to taste.   Porchetta is Italian for a stuffed and roasted pork loin.  The body of the pig is gutted, deboned, stuffed and wrapped in skin.  This was amazing!!!!!

PORK PORCHETTA

My stage started as normal, meeting the cooks, prepping for service, and running down the menu.  I get the usual questions from the staff, “where have you worked”? “you are only staging for one night”?  And tonight my personal favorite, “so you are a serial stager?” This raises the question I have for other chefs, “shouldn’t you be staging at other restaurants too?”  Why does my staging confuse you????  Let me explain why I stage.  Its not because I want to critique you, get insider information for my “cool blog”, or write some bullshit review.  I stage because in some small way I become better after my experience.  I may see something and be it the littlest minuet detail but for some reason it sticks with me.  Not to mention I get to taste food, enhancing my palate, and becoming more knowledgeable about various ingredients.  Why do I write about it in a blog?  Well I guess I just like to write and it also helps me to remember, so BACK OFF!

BRANZINI WITH CHICKPEA FRIES

I recently went back to the One Eared Stag to eat.  There was a small crowd for a Saturday night.  As good as the food is, this place should be packed and it kills me that it’s not. However I believe its because some of the items are just not relatable enough.  For instance this dish I had….

ALMONDS AND OLIVES

On the menu it simply reads, “almonds and olives” I must admit I skipped over it at first but it was one of the best dishes I have had in awhile.  The olives arrive in a garlic-infused oil with toasted Marcona almonds, served warm with pink peppercorns for an amazing kick of flavor.  I LOVE PINK PEPPERCORNS!  This dish is so simple, highlighting great ingredients, with amazing flavor. When you eat here or at any restaurant, go with an open mind and try to be adventurous. When I go to a restaurant I always tell the wait staff to let the chef order for me.  Otherwise I order the special. Leave it to the professionals; you’ll have a better experience!

BLUE BOURBON

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“When you acknowledge and you must,
that there is no such thing as perfect food,
only the idea of it, the real purpose of striving towards perfection becomes clear; to make people happy,That’s what cooking is all about.”

-Thomas Keller

Stage #9 Miller Union

WEST SIDE 999 BRADY AVE ATLANTA, GA 30318

www.millerunion.com

One of the most important things i’ve learned as a chef is to treat ingredients with little manipulation.  Take your knowledge and enhance the ingredients, don’t mask them.  Sometimes I let my culinary edification get in the way; I get so fixated on the technicalities of cooking I can over think the dish.  Miller Union’s philosophy of fresh and pure cuisine serves as the reminder why simplistic dishes prepared with passion and thoughtfulness prevail.

Miller Union is home to chef Steven Satterfield, a true cook, preparing southern favorites for Atlanta diners on the West Side of town.  I have always respected Steven from the articles I have read to his humble demeanor when I first met him.  I knew I wanted to stage in his restaurant and learn from his team.  After several emails I finally got on his schedule and was able to experience his culinary fervor.

My night at Miller Union…

I arrived in the beginning of the dinner line-up.  This is where the chef gathers the entire staff to run through the menu, explain the ingredients and answer any questions.  I don’t know why but this is one of my favorite parts of a service.  I think its because it stresses that team dynamic needed to run a successful restaurant.

One of the first things I noticed was that no one referred to Steven as, “chef”; it was just, “Steven”, like he was just part of the team.  I like this modest approach about him; puts you at ease.

I began prepping for dinner service then worked on the line cooking the grilled chicken, pork loin, and snapper dishes.  We were also responsible for the buckwheat bilinis and creamy grit fritters that were stuffed with Thomasville Tome cheese and deep fried.

All the dishes at Miller Union are local, seasonal and prepared simplistically using ingredients enhanced by vinegar, bacon fat, and infused cream.

GRILLED PORK LOIN, FIELD PEAS, BRAISED GREENS, GREEN TOMATO SALSA

HOUSEMADE PORK SAUSAGE, SNAP PEAS, SPRING ONIONS, RAMPS

HOUSEMADE PASTA, SAPELO ISLAND CLAMS, BENTON'S BACON, SPRING PEAS

Hands down one of my favorite restaurants in Atlanta and a true representation of how food should be.  I can’t wait to go back!

Stage #8 The Farmhouse

SERENBE, 10950 HUTCHENSON FERRY RD. PALMETTO, GA

The feeling I had when I walked into The Farmhouse, nestled on the grounds of Serenbe, a 1,000-acre community just outside Atlanta, is one I will always remember.   I could feel the passion as soon as I stepped onto the property, with family pictures on the walls and familiar smells of southern food permeating from the kitchen; I felt at home.

The Farmhouse is the restaurant to Serenbe’s Bed and Breakfast and is meant to make you feel like you are eating in someone’s home; maybe that’s because at one time it was the family’s kitchen.   Serenbe is home to Marie and Steve Nygren and their children.  Marie oversees the kitchen at the Farmhouse, and creates dishes from locally grown produce.

THE LINE

THE KITCHEN

The menu although simple, is a delicious collaboration of dishes representing flavors near and dear to Marie’s heart.  The menu changes every week based on availablilty and seasonality and usually includes, a salad, soup, two entrees, and two desserts.  The entrees featured the night I was there were Pan Sauteed Trout and Country Fried Steak.

COUNTRY STEAK, MUSHROOM SAUCE, BUTTERMILK MASH, COLLARDS

TROUT, PECAN PARSLEY SAUCE, RICE, BEANS WITH BROWN BUTTER

Joy, one of Marie’s cooks and dear friend, was preparing brown butter in a crock pot for dinner service.  I have never seen anyone prepare brown butter in a crock pot but she told me that she had done it the night before and it came out great.  I love this type of cooking and its the reason why sometimes cooks make better decisions that chefs.  Sometimes chefs are afraid to stray away from the technical way and ignore their common sense, cooks prepare things until they look right; its great to see this!

Joy bakes most of the desserts from recipes taken from her grandmother’s cookbook passed down through generations.  Every meal at the Farmhouse is prepared with love and family as the linchpin of it’s inspiration.  Joy’s coconut cake was featured on the menu tonight; just a big fat, 4-layer slice of delicious, moist cake served on the plate with no frills, garnishes or pretentiousness in the way!  Everything I tasted was mouth-watering and full of flavor and love.

I stayed throughout dinner service, helped prepped, asked Marie as many questions as I could, I even got to feed the pigs.  Yeah us city girls do not get this opportunity too often.

3rd FEEDING OF THE DAY

THE STAFF

Stage #7 Empire State South

MIDTOWN 999 PEACHTREE STREET ATLANTA, GA 30309

www.empirestatesouth.com

Empire State South (ESS) is home to chef’s Hugh Acheson and Ryan Smith.  Together they bring sophisticated and modern southern food to Midtown Atlanta.   Equipped with a full menu, coffee bar, and full size bocce ball court; this restaurant further affirms why Georgia is known as the “Empire State of the South”.

I was excited about this stage because this restaurant represents my style of cooking; taking simple, regional, recognizable cuisine and giving it a modern makeover.  In my opinion this approach to cooking is the key to successful food and ESS has unlocked it.

With dishes such as the kimchi grits and pimento cheese topped with bacon marmalade, customers are made to feel comfortable ordering them.  Everyone (us southerners anyway) relates to “grits” and “pimento cheese” and therefore are willing to try it with the addition of the kimchi and the bacon marmalade.  We as chefs can cook dishes all day that may appeal to us and other chefs but if the public doesn’t want to buy them then you have an unsuccessful dining establishment.  ESS does a great job of successfully implementing this philosophy, leaving their diners satisfied.

My stage at ESS started off as normal; heading into the kitchen, putting on an apron, and helping the staff prep for dinner service.   I like how the kitchen moved.  Everything was clean, fresh and new with an innovative vibe.

I love staging because I am very visual and learn the best this way.  Sometimes just stepping into other kitchens spark ideas and inspiration that are irreplaceable.  And let’s be honest all the free food I get to eat doesn’t suck!  They have a lot of great dishes, one of my favorite in particular was the beef tartare with mache, crisp egg, gribiche and puffed beef tendon.  Ok I know beef tendon doesn’t sound too appealing but it is awesome.  “Puffing” is a fascinating food technique that can be applied to several types of ingredients.  You start by cooking something, then completely drying it out before deep frying it.  The result is a beautiful “puff”.  This same method is used to make pork rinds or the “redneck snack” as I like to call it. “Puffing” works particularly well with rice as well as most other ingredients however it can be a lengthy process.  Today I was playing around with the technique and discovered a delicious use for leftover Parmesan rind that takes only 10 minutes.   Shave your Parmesan rinds thinly with a cheese grater, throw into 350 degree frying oil and viola, you have Parmesan rinds!

These were awesome.  Try serving them with Tomato soup or crumbled on top of a salad. You can also try this method with Jasmine rice.  Cook the rice according to package directions, compltely dry out, then deep fry (about 30 seconds) in super hot oil until rice is “puffed”.

I would have liked to spend more time at ESS as I felt very comfortable in this kitchen.  If you have not had the chance check it out and order the beef tartare.  Some other great dishes include, the pork belly or the house charcuterie.

Stage #6 Le Bernardin

UPPER WEST SIDE 155 WEST 51ST STREET NEW YORK, NY 10020

www.le-bernardin.com 

GARDE MANGER

So this is what its like to be in a 3 star Michelin restaurant! For those of you who do not know, Michelin (yes as in the tire) is a restaurant and tour guide book that originated in France. The Michelin guide employs anonymous inspectors to dine in restaurants and judge the service/food. If the restaurant meets expectations the restaurant may be visited again and again and if the inspector thinks that it is up to Michelin standard they are rewarded a star. Obviously the more stars a restaurant has the better it is perceived. Some chefs dedicate their whole careers striving for one of these proverbial stars and Le Bernardin has three.

As I walked into the kitchen I tried not to feel intimidated but its difficult once you recognize the caliber that surrounds you. Michael Laiskonis (one of the country’s top pastry chefs) was 10 feet away from me perfecting his desserts for service, Maguy Le Coze (owner) was up at the pass speaking to the sous chefs; the people you read about and here I was sharing the kitchen with them.   After I got the tour of the kitchen and met the chefs, I figured I would just stand in the corner and watch; surely they weren’t going to let me touch anything, however next thing I hear is “do you know how to clean foie gras”? “We have about 60 lobes to clean for torchons; we’re having a foie cleaning party”. I was thinking to myself, who can afford to have a foie gras cleaning party but I am down! I helped clean the foie gras with a couple sous chefs and a stage from Germany and another stage from Chile. At this moment I really felt immersed in my industry and was proud to be apart of it.  The kitchen had such an energy to it, filled with chefs learning from one another and preparing for the perfect dinner service.

CLEANED FOIE GRAS

Let me explain why I say it is the perfect dinner service…

Cooks that are hired at Le Bernardin start off at the Garde Manger station (cold food) where the food is prepared ahead of time and is pretty much fool proof. If the cooks do well at this station they will move up to the next station and so on and so on. It can take as long as 2 years for a cook to reach the fish station (the Poissonnier) and trust me in a restaurant known for their fish you better believe the Poissonier in Le Bernardin knows how to cook fish perfectly. Once the tickets come in, (which are all still hand written by the way) the line functions preparing one table at a time dedicating the most care to those specific diners. After that table’s ticket is cooked and completed it goes to the pass and is tasted and inspected by 3-4 sous chefs, if and only if, it is perceived to be perfect it goes out to the diner. This was amazing to watch; everyone relying on each other, communicating with the upmost trust and respect for one another, all working together in synergy to create the perfect dining experience.

Stage Lockers

Every kitchen in New York has lockers for their employees because everyone walks and usually needs to change before work. Not to mention the winters suck and you need to shed about 3 layers before putting on your chef whites.

Seared Yellowtail King Fish; Truffle Risotto, Baby Vegetables, Black Truffle Emulsion

Family Meal-chili, rice, crab fritters, salad

Family meal is something that most every restaurant implements.  The staff gathers before dinner service, usually around 5pm, and eats “family meal” together.  This meal usually consists of leftovers from previous nights and teaches chefs how to utilize food products that normally would be wasted to create something delicious.  It also further demonstrates the importance of bringing the staff together, creating a team/family dynamic needed to run a successful restaurant.

Pan Seared Duck Breast Turnips, Dolce-Forte Sauce Pine Nuts and Caramelized Orange

Sous Chef Colby

Colby got me this stage.  I tried to get into Le Bernardin the whole time I was in NYC but they were full or so they said. Getting into one of the top 20 restaurants in the country isn’t always the easiest feet.  Fortunately through mutual contacts I met Colby out one night and he pulled some strings!  Thanks Colby

Torchon

Octopus Fermented Black Bean-Pear Sauce Vierge Ink, Miso Vinaigrette, Purple Basil

This was one of my favorite dishes.  The octopus had an amazing flavor!

Lobster Carpaccio Hearts of Palm, Orange Vinaigrette

Mini Steamed Buns Hoisin-Plum Jus

Codfish Leek and Grape Parfait, Caramelized Endives, Green Peppercorn Marinere

Spices blended just exclusively for Le Bernardin

Red Snapper Saffron "Fideos", Smoked Paprika Sauce

Pasta Station

I’ll never forget the feeling I felt when I walked out of Le Bernardin. It marked the end of my trip and it reminded me how passionate I am about food. It is such an art and a profession that allows you to showcase your creativity and share it with others that are just as fervent about it as you are.

I say this to all aspiring, young chefs out there; live life to the fullest, experience all food, work in every type of restaurant you can, immerse yourself with other chefs, cooks, restauranteurs that are just as passionate about this field as you are and learn from those experiences and let them shape you into the person/chef that you are and want to become.

Something tells me my New York journey isn’t over and I truly do miss the city. Maybe I will find myself here again in the future; either way I am so thankful for this opportunity; i’ll never forget it!